Barcelona, Spain

Barceloneta: view from the Teleferic de Montjuic (cable car)

The amount of time it has taken me to write an entry about my trip to Barcelona is a testament to how much the Catalan city confused and delighted me at the same time. I'd been wanting to go on a more cultural type of holiday for a while before the trip, and I had set my expectations way high for Barcelona. I thought it would be a place where finding a local tapas bar where the waiters were rude and the prices were low only required an aimless 15-minute stroll around a maze of narrow streets. I also thought that it would be teeming with local university students with whom stimulating conversations and alcohol would flow freely.

Mercat de la Boqueria

In a way, Barcelona does have all of the above to offer, but you have to search long and hard, especially if you don't have a local with you to show you around and tip you off about all the right places. In fact, I challenge anyone to find a single worthwhile attraction on what is deemed the most visited area in Barcelona - Las Ramblas. That place is the true definition of a tourist trap. Live statues? Check. Countless souvenir stalls? Check. Ice cream counters? Check. Crowds of fat, sweaty tourists, Check. Overpriced restaurants? Check. Pickpockets? Check, check, check and check. The worst thing about Las Ramblas is that there is nothing extraordinarily beautiful along it, aside from Mercat de la Boqueria, a covered market that boasts a range of delicious Spanish hams, fresh juices, spices, cheese and locally-grown fruits and veg. 

If it is absolutely necessary for you to go on Las Ramblas, I suggest you turn left as soon as possible and wander through the Gothic Quarter, a real treat for those who love losing themselves through the streets with the aim of stumbling upon a local hidden gem, be it a restaurant, shop, bar or street performance. I didn't immediately fall in love with Barcelona. It was only on our second or third night there that it happened, when we spontaneously ventured along the side of the Gothic Cathedral and heard Spanish guitar music floating from an indefinite place. Following the sound, we finally arrived in a deserted alleyway behind the Cathedral, save for a man sitting on a stool, pensively plucking at the strings of his guitar. In his mind and in ours, we were a million miles away from the live statues and spray-paint artists of Las Ramblas. For a few minutes, it was just him, his guitar, and the astonishing acoustics of the alleyway. I was finally convinced that Barcelona has a soul that hasn't yet been tarnished by the hordes of tourists who flood the city each year with their offensive and obstinate refusal to wear sunscreen. (A sunburn does not make you look wealthy because you can afford to go on holiday. At least try to fool everyone by proving you can afford sunscreen too.)

Jazz clubs/bars are my new favourite way to enjoy a city's nightlife without sweating your way through the night at some dodgy nightclub. We visited the Bel-Luna Jazz Club on Rambla de Catalunya, where the staff is friendly and the performances were effervescent with the musicians' personalities and passion. We must have been the youngest people there, but I felt like I was enjoying the music in a relaxed environment with locals and tourists alike after spending a day dodging sunburnt tourists here there and everywhere.

There's a good reason why sangria and flamenco shows in Barcelona are overpriced: they are not native to Catalonia. Yes, I know you're only visiting Barcelona and it's SPAIN, but trust me. Order a glass of house cava, immerse yourself in Gaudi's works and in the rest of Barcelona's art scene - it's worth far more of your money than imitations of what other regions of Spain can do so much better.

I'm a firm believer in making the most of a trip by trying to live like a local for at least a day. In Barcelona's case, you should go on a bike tour, or, if you're feeling particularly brave or adventurous, rent bikes and navigate your own way through the city. We did the latter, got slightly lost and the Hongkonger in me made me run a red light right before a 4-lane roundabout. But when we had made our way from Las Ramblas all the way to the Sagrada Familia, I felt a strange pride at having gone from one tourist hotspot to another, but getting there like a local would. Just beware riding on pedestrian zones/sidewalks - nobody enjoys being bumped into by a bicycle... If people could actually shoot laser beams from their eyes, I wouldn't be here to tell the tale.

Parc Guell

One tourist attraction that is worth fighting through crowds to get to is Parc Guell, if only for the gorgeous panoramic views it offers you from the top. Take it all in, or go for a morning run there if your hotel/serviced apartment is close by. I don't think any other city park can quite rival Parc Guell's quirky features, courtesy of Antoni Gaudi himself, that blend in with the green surroundings.

While most people flock to the Casa Batllo to satiate their desire for Gaudi architecture, it does cost a hefty 17 euros for entry. Casa Mila, also known as La Pedrera, is just a little further up Passeig de Gracia and costs about 14 euros entry. Its crazy rooftop has so many photographic opportunities, so be sure to charge your camera the night before. The top floor of the building, directly underneath the roof, has a small exhibit that takes you through the different objects, concepts and elements that underpinned Gaudi's inspirations for his works. There is also a gorgeous little apartment tour, and the Casa Mila's museum boutique is one of those where you can spend hours window-shopping.

My heart beats for Barcelona because of the Picasso Museum. Unfortunately, as the interests of our group diverged, only two of us went to the museum and we were given one hour to visit it. Boy, did I regret that as soon as I stepped into the main exhibition hall. Where do I begin with the multiple wonders this museum has to offer? Picasso's early works offer insight into the vast array of influences that different cities, people, friends and literature had on his major, more famous pieces. The artist's openness to new ideas and techniques is what impressed me the most, and the museum does a wonderful job of displaying these works and explaining the story behind each theme. To cut a long story short, I would return to Barcelona just for this museum. 

Naturally, there's only so much culture you can take within 5 days. An afternoon at the beach was the perfect antidote for feet sore from walking for several  days in a row. Be wary of the women offering massages, even when they decide to poke you to tell you 'how velly good' it is. The oil they use is guaranteed to worsen any developing sunburn. However, do not ignore the 1 euro mojitos. I made that mistake and am still hitting myself for being too judgmental of people selling stuff on the beach.

Damn you, Barcelona, city of contradictions and hidden beauty.